Beyond Botox: new favourites emerge in the aesthetic medicine market

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In Russia, collagen therapy is becoming the most soughtafter aesthetic procedure. According to the company Pravo na Zdorovye, the segment of injectable collagencontaining medical devices accounted for 12% of the biorevitalisation market in 2025, reaching nearly 3 billion roubles in value.

Collagen is one of the most thoroughly studied and long‑standing products in the beauty industry. As early as 1981, the American company Collagen Corp received the first‑ever FDA approval for bovine collagen (Zyderm) for wrinkle correction, marking the beginning of the “filler era”. Moreover, until 2003, it was the only collagen filler approved by the US regulator.

Analytical company Mordor Intelligence published a report showing that the collagen‑based products market grew to $1.01 billion in 2023 and forecast that growth would continue at nearly 7% through 2028.

By the early 1990s, hyaluronic acid had become the leader, with its injections becoming the “gold standard” for a time. As for collagen, in most countries it was represented only by isolated products and did not form a separate category. However, amid a trend of “fatigue” with hyaluronic acid, interest in collagen injections is returning, and Russia has become a pioneer in this area.

Experts explain this by noting that collagen injections are well‑suited to the Russian ageing pattern, effectively addressing visible signs of ageing. A separate source of demand for collagen injections in Russia comes from patients who have experienced rapid weight loss due to medication. In cases of “Ozempic face”, collagen therapy is used as a tool for structural correction without adding volume.

Today, there are around ten collagen products in Russia, including domestically produced ones such as Collost and Sferogel, as well as imported ones such as Nithya, Jufora, Linerase and others. Russian collagen holds the leading position, forming a unique market model that differs from the Western one, where international brands dominate.

“In 2025, the retail biorevitalisation market saw 2.57 million packages sold, worth 21.5 billion roubles (at retail prices including VAT). The growth compared with 2024 was 23% in packages and 42% in roubles. Collagen‑based products play a significant role here, accounting for approximately 14% of the physical volume and 18% of the value volume in the category,” said Nikolay Bespalov, Director for Development at the analytical company RNC Pharma.

According to RNC Pharma, total sales of Collost in 2025 amounted to 197,400 packages (+30% compared with 2024) or 1.9 billion roubles (at retail prices including VAT), with the value volume increasing by 43% from 2024.

Growth for other products was less pronounced. Sales of Sferogel reached 147,700 packages (+2% from 2024) worth 1.6 billion roubles (+13%). Nithya sold 9,000 packages in 2025 (-4%) worth 157.7 million roubles (+3%), and Linerase sold 8,000 packages (-8.3%) worth 170 million roubles (+25%).

The expert identifies a potential leader in the innovative biorevitalisation segment: polynucleotides—DNA/RNA fragments used in aesthetic medicine for cell regeneration, stimulation of collagen production, and deep skin hydration. They are derived from salmon milt, ensuring high compatibility with human tissues.

The key product in this segment is Plinest from the Italian company Mastelli, which drives growth in the category. In 2025, 179,700 packages were sold (double the volume of 2024) worth 2.1 billion roubles (2.3 times higher), RNC Pharma calculated.

“We are seeing very high growth in the polynucleotide category: in 2025, sales in this segment increased by 79% in packages, while the value volume grew 2.3‑fold,” noted Nikolay Bespalov. In absolute terms, they still lag behind collagen‑based products, but if current growth rates continue over the next year or year and a half, they will move into second place in the category, he added.

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