Physicists at Saratov State University have learned to track skin dehydration at different depths in real time using optical coherence tomography (OCT). The proposed approach will speed up the development of new cosmetics and drugs, the Russian Science Foundation (RSF) press service said. The findings, supported by an RSF grant, were published in the journal Skin Pharmacology and Physiology.
The researchers developed an algorithm that correlates tomographic images with hydration levels. The less water in the tissues, the more poorly they scatter light. This made it possible to create a real‑time hydration map of the skin. Experiments were conducted on rats by applying either alcohol or an anti‑inflammatory drug (a glucocorticosteroid) dissolved in alcohol to skin areas. Some animals were also treated with ultrasound to improve solution penetration.
OCT showed that alcohol causes temporary dehydration of the upper skin layers, with tissues returning to normal in about 20 minutes. Ultrasound exposure enhanced alcohol penetration deeper into the skin, while recovery of hydration accelerated by 30%. With the glucocorticosteroid dissolved in alcohol, the skin was unable to fully recover even after 30 minutes due to the effect of the active substance itself.
The proposed method not only detects moisture loss but also measures its depth and rate. This is important for dermatology and cosmetics, particularly for testing topical drug formulations and assessing their dehydration‑related side effects.
Project leader Yulia Sveskaya noted that the researchers plan to adapt the approach for studying pathological tissues. The method can also be used to assess the quality of moisturising cosmetics, which will ultimately speed up the launch of new products on the market.
